Friday, June 27, 2008
The Party's Over
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Happy Bday to Me: wild nerves but generally unshockable

My kids, with Miss Kim’s help, put together a sweet folding book of family pictures, then Pat surprised me with a bag of dark-chocolate-covered-expresso beans from Trader Joe’s when I went into the exam room to see my HIV positive patients. I’m sure that was the best thing that ever happened in that sad room. There was a note saying “you need Holy Spirit to meet to be a strength in weakness. . . but a few espresso beans can help.” It was my turn to be prayed for at our weekly prayer meeting too, and Scotticus burned me a CD of a new artist (we over 40s need help to not get too stodgy, though Luke’s card assured me I was “sparky” and Jack’s was also very encouraging). We had a quiet family dinner and enjoyed a cake Scott made. He and Julia both wrote me poems! I’ll share Julia’s below, since Scott’s is at least PG-13.
My mother is amazing
With four kids daily raising
She helps a starving child
Comes home with nerves wild
The cook of the best food,
In a much cheerier mood.
Bad cases does she doctor
But Maate has yet to shock her
She’s a beautiful crazy mother,
And I’d like no other.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Miracle of medicine, surgery, hope, and prayer

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Maate is being healed, slowly but surely. This is the 15 year old boy, Luke’s age and Liana’s size, who was suffering from severe abdominal pain and wasting thin-ness a couple of months ago. We thought he must have TB but he did not improve on the medicines. His patient perseverance really got to my heart, and when he began to deteriorate more rapidly we could not bear to watch him die. The International Hospital of Kampala, founded by missionary Dr. Ian Clarke, has the best care in the country and one ward dedicated to providing free care for a limited number of desperate people. Many people prayed for Maate and the Hope Ward of IHK agreed to admit him in late April.
It turned out that he did have TB, but the TB was located in the linings of his intestines, making it difficult for him to absorb both food and the medicines that would save him. Doctors at IHK inserted a feeding tube that bypassed the worst area, and allowed the drugs to begin to do their work. We visited him twice in Kampala, as did other team mates, he looked so out of place on that shiny new ward, a lost soul in a big city. But he did get better, slowly. When he was discharged back to us a month ago his weight had crept up from 19 to 22 kg, but his pain was much less and his fevers gone. Now after a month of nutritional rehab (thanks to UNICEF milk) he’s up to 27.4 kg today, and officially discharged.
He’ll have to complete months of daily anti-TB drug doses, but his returning muscle and ever-present smile are signs of hope. He and his mother walked to see us from the Congo border today lugging a jack-fruit almost as big as Maate as a way to say thanks. He’s planning to re-enroll in school next term. I don’t know what plans God has for this boy, but the visible sign of “all things made new” is enough for me. I heard staff commenting that he should be named Lazarus, one who was raised from the dead. In the midst of many struggles and disappointments, seeing someone like Maate transform from a skeleton to a boy, is a miracle that keeps me going.
Golden Girl



Miss Ashley turned 23 on June 23rd, which makes this her golden birthday, a little slice of American culture I did not learn until my team mates here introduced it (your special Bday is the the one when the day and the age you are turning match . . ).
Perhaps appropriate that it should fall while she is here. There is a haunting Edgar Allen Poe poem called El Dorado, where the knight is searching for the land of gold, and goes “over the mountains of the moon, into the valley of shadow, ride boldly ride, the shade replied, if you search for El Dorado!” We are definitely over the Mountains of the Moon and deep into the valley of shadow here. Interesting that this is where we find true gold, far from “home”, in a place of shadowy distress. Ashley has been one nugget of that gold for us as she teaches the team kids and coaches the girls’ soccer team, or just hangs out with our family as a friend. The Pierces planned a surprise pre-school breakfast party for her in the morning, and we joined in with the Massos and her housemates for an evening complete with special lava cakes (her mom sent a mix for her favorite dessert all the way to Africa . . .) and gifts. And that is the real gold here, the community formed in the valley of shadow.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Advocacy efforts...
On mountain climbing, and swords to plowshares



There’s a day coming
When the mountain of GOD’s House
Will be The Mountain-
Solid, towering over all mountains.
All nations will river toward it,
People from all over set out for it.
They’ll say “Come,
Let’s climb God’s Mountain . . . .
He’ll settle things fairly between nations.
He’ll make things right between many peoples.
They’ll turn their swords into shovels,
Their spears into hoes.
No more will nation fight nation;
They won’t play war any more.
Come, family of Jacob,
Let’s live in the light of GOD.
Isaiah 2 (from The Message translation)
Michael arranged a hike for the interns yesterday, and since my kids were tagging along and I had been away for three days, I went with them too. We started in Kakuka, at 4,000 feet, what had always seemed to me to be a high and distant town, the last habitable spot before Uganda blends into Congo on the slopes of the Rwenzoris. Three interns, Kim, Michael and Acacia, and four Myhres (Scott stayed back with Jack who is still trying to recover from his heel injury), two park rangers (required) and six soldiers from two different camps. The mountain trails are rarely traveled from this side, and the park was, many years ago, the territory of elusive rebel bands, so tourists are required to inform the proper authorities and accept security escorts. We wended our way along the Lamia river as it flowed from a fold of the hills, the seemingly random border that divides Uganda from the chaotic Eastern Congo. Our trail ascended past scattered mud homes, gardens of cabbages and beans, the occasional goat or stand of coffee trees. Compared to the densely populated valley around the mission, these slopes felt peacefully spread out. At 6,000 feet we entered the forest, and the Rwenzori National Park, leaving all signs of human habitation far behind. Our goal was a junction called Kakole, at almost 8,000 feet in the bamboo, where the path meets another trail from the Kasese side. We walked single file on the narrow muddy trail, our arms in front of our faces often to protect us from the damp bushy overgrowth. Sometimes the trail was so steep and slick we fell, or grabbed roots to almost crawl upward. It was a strenuous, muscle-taxing, gasping sort of walk, 5 hours up and 3 hours back down.
But well worth it. The forest shimmers with a thousand greens, from giant wlid banana leaf fronds to spiky prehistoric ferns to feathery bamboo. Thunder rumbled, echoing, reminding us of the mystery the Rwenzoris held for the people who have lived for generations at their feet, the place where the gods create rain and send it down. As we went higher we passed into the mist of clouds, and then later the drenching of rain. Ridges overlook deep and unexplored valleys. Birds call from hidden roosts. There were hooved prints in the mud, a forest duiker, and probably monkeys watching, but we never saw any animals. The terrain is vast and dense, nearly impenetrable, thick with the buzz of life and the richness of regeneration, sprinkled with the delicate colors of wild flowers, hiding untold beauties.
This morning as I read Isaiah, I thought more about why God uses mountains to describe His dwelling. I think He had something like the Rwenzoris in mind. Not bald hills, not tame rises one climbs in a car on a paved highway. No, real mountains, mountains that wrinkle and rise in confusing patterns, with hidden valleys and sheer drop-offs, with rewarding vistas and abundant life. Mountains that would take a lifetime, or more, to really know. Mountains where danger and beauty, risk and reward, mingle moment to moment.
Perhaps it was the presence of the heavily armed guards that made the risk palpable, even though we were quite safe. (A parentheses: unlike any popular media portrayal that comes to mind, the UPDF we usually encounter are serious and professional, competent and alert. The battalion has the nickname “Mountain Sweepers”. These men carry ropes of bullets and heavy guns but they are the good guys, the ones that ensure that the unrest in DRC does not spill into Uganda, the ones that ensure that rebels who would terrorize civilians can not move with impunity through the anonymity of the forests.) And here the image fragments a bit. As we move through our literal mountains, there is danger of exhaustion or illness, of injury or disorientation, or theoretically of attack.
No so on the mountain of God. There risk remains, but the risk is that of losing self and finding Goodness. When we finally climb that mountain, the 30 caliber bullets will be melted into ornaments, the AK-47’s will be flattened into hoes. In God’s presence there will be no evil, no need for armed escorts, no playing war. Just climbing, further up and further in, to explore His presence. And again I am reminded of the main theme God seems to be impressing upon me this month: we only experience as much grace as we risk needing. Setting off on the trail which is almost too steep and long for my strength puts me in the place where He can reveal His vastness. The reality of the mountains does not change, but only by risking can I encounter that emerald beauty.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
On Advocacy
THE ROAD, EARLY: Scott’s post from yesterday eloquently puts that day into words. Heidi and I left home at 9 am, did priorty-only hospital work and were on the road at 10:15. We arrived at our destination in Kampala twelve hours later about 10 pm, and only by the grace of God, the prayers of the powerless (I started the day on the ward asking a widowed grandmother of a motherless baby to pray for ME since I pray out loud daily for them), and the chivalry of my husband who sacrificed his entire day to our rescue. Please try to picture Heidi and I, with Melen and baby Jonah, peering under the hood of an unfamiliar borrowed car, discussing in Lubwisi mechanical issues I don’t even understand in English with a motorcycle mechanic who materialized out of the nearest village slightly inebriated. But even in that hour or two, we saw some amazing mercies. We broke down 50 meters from a pay-to-use phone kiosk, probably the only connection within many, many miles. Within minutes people we knew in a hospital truck stopped, gave intelligent opinions (including chiding me for not checking the water in the radiator like any decent African driver before a trip) and offered to take Melen on her way, since she was trying to get to Fort Portal and back the same day (still chasing the paperwork for Jonah’s estate). In the midst of trudging back and forth to the nearby village to get water and use the phone, the young man who owned the phone kiosk became my self-appointed assistant. I could hear his friends, the ever-present idle crowd of men, teasing him. And he turned to them and said something like “Of course we are helping her, she is our person, don’t you know she works here in our district for us all these years?” It was a very sweet moment for me. How many times have I seen our own need call out kindness, the opportunity to be helped a moment of connection?
THE ROAD, EVER ON AND ON: Once Scott saved us and switched cars, we bounced along to Fort Portal, where we did have one moment of panic when the truck would not turn on after refueling. But it turned out to be a loose battery connection from switching batteries from car to car (so we’d have the only functional one) . . .and so we went on. I don’t usually drive, and felt pretty nervous about the responsibility. But I thoroughly enjoyed talking to Heidi more than we’ve ever had a chance.. We knew we were so late by this time that we pressed on without stopping for food or drink or anything else. But our rush was not enough to get us to Kampala before dark. The last hour and a half were nothing short of harrowing: darkness unbroken by street lights, so only the narrow field in our headlight beams was visible, the crumbling road pocked by random deep hidden potholes, swerving to maneuver around them, while trying to avoid head-on collisions with oncoming road-dominating suicidal trucks on a fragment of tarmac that is not wide enough for two vehicles, being blinded by the oncoming headlights, and just to make things interesting the sides of the roads packed with pedestrians, bicyclists, the occasional cow, students, last-minute market shoppers, carts, you name it, all seemingly dressed in the darkest clothes possible. And to make it even more interesting, we were right behind a fuel tanker for a good while, the kind that regularly blows up in accidents here. At one point a mountain of dirt, no doubt intended for road repair, appeared in our lane suddenly out of the dark, and if Heidi had not yelled I might have hit it. But she kept her humor, I kept my focus, and somehow we survived. We were so exhausted by the time we arrived we could barely eat and fall into bed.
THE APPEALS: We were up early today to re-enter the traffic struggle, an hour-and-a-half of inching progress, futilely whistling policemen, cars driving the wrong way in lanes that don’t exist, swarms of boda-bodas cutting in between the bumpers, in short Kampala. Our first stop was UNICEF, a brand new beautiful building with security and buzzers and air conditioning and desks and phones . . . Not exactly what we’re used to. But we dressed up and tried to be confident. Our contact there put us at ease, and within an hour we had worked out an agreement for them to supply our nutrition unit with about 9 thousand dollars worth of special formula per year. Small in the UNICEF world, but huge for us. Instead of being cut off, we are expecting a supply to arrive next week. Hooray!
From there we found the nursing board, the initial impetus for the trip. Heidi had been scheduled for an interview at 11 am. We checked in with the receptionist, and sat to wait. The lady on the phone had told Heidi it would take a few minutes. A half hour later we decided I should proceed with the day’s tasks and come back for Heidi. It turned out to be a wise decision, since the 11 am interview happened about about 3 pm..
Meanwhile I found the Mwanamugimu Nutrition Unit at Mulago Hospital, the national referral hospital. There is something about the open-air, single-story clusters of colonial-era African hospital wards that I love in spite of the peeling paint and scant resources. Here disease is not glossed over or sterilized: hungry kids are lined up and intent staff are going about their daily tasks as if it is perfectly normal to mix milk in plastic pails and cook porridge in charcoal-blackened pans. Because it is. I stumbled upon Save-the-Children-UK filming documentary footage of malnutrition in relation to rising global food prices, and then spent some time with the staff. I came away impressed by the articulate and competent nutritionist in charge, and having a connection of sorts for sending our staff for better training.
Heidi was still waiting. So from Mulago I found the Clinton Foundation office, where I had a very pleasant meeting with the young program director. He listened to the needs in Bundibugyo and then pulled out a pen and calculator and committed to sending 150 cartons of plumpynut, a ready-to-eat food supplement the foundation supplies to HIV positive malnourished children, next week! It turns out he’s changing jobs next week, so the timing was very providential. I was beginning to have that feeling that the angels had put a sign on my forehead: give this woman whatever she asks for.
Heidi was still waiting, so riding the crest of the prayers going before me, I next found the EGPAF offices. I never do this kind of moving about town .. . . So they were all surprised to see me instead of Scott. But I explained that we had not been able to follow the newest guidelines for the treatment of HIV-infected mothers and babies because we lacked baby-formulations of AZT . . . And came away with 20 little boxes, a good start.
THE HARD NEWS: By this time it was late afternoon, and Heidi called to say she had finally been seen by the board. It seems they liked her paperwork and her presence, but there was the little detail they had forgotten to mention that she’d have to spend two months interning in a hospital in Kampala supervised by one of their registration board nurses if she wanted a work permit to continue nursing in Uganda. This was shocking news to all of us, and we’re still processing it, since 2 months without Heidi sounds pretty bleak to me, and two months in Kampala alone sounds pretty stressful to her. But after God opened the doors so decisively at UNICEF, Mulago, Clinton Foundation, and EGPAF . . It was hard not to suspect that even this apparent setback had a purpose we do not yet realize.
FINALLY: We finally got a bit to eat, a “breakfast” of falafel at 4, and managed to knock off some shopping and errands for team mates. One of the freedoms of being without kids: we had ice cream instead of dinner to wrap up our second 12-hour intense day.
I started the day with a Psalm about justice for the fatherless and widow, and ended the day having witnessed that Justice in motion.
The Vav


Scott here. In the middle of my ultrasound clinic yesterday Jennifer stopped in to say goodbye as she headed for Kampala with Heidi to visit the UNICEF office, trying to persuade them to continue to supply us with the therapeutic food we need for our malnutrition patients. Of course, I expected life to notch up to "hectic" level. We survive because we are a unit, juggling the myriad responsibilities of patient care, team coordination, and the seemingly endless list of general life maintenance tasks required to live in Africa (...last time I tried to flush the toilet there was no water which led to a two hour comedy of errors including eradication of a colony of biting ants just so I could touch the outside water valve connecting us to Michael's gravity water line).
An hour and a half after she left, just as I finished my last ultrasound case, Jennifer called. "The car just stopped and steam poured out from under the hood," she said. She drove the Bartkoviches old car (~11 years old) so we could equip it with new tires and put the machine into the hands of our young teachers. We discussed lots of possible scenarios, including various explanations and solutions to the overheating and various car swaps. She accepted the challenge of refilling the radiator while I got on the road to come and assist. A half hour into my journey towards her, I found the road blocked by two trucks (one broken down and one which got stuck in the mud trying to pass) so I turned back to use an alternate path. In the meantime, Jennifer called to say she got the car started again and we agreed that she could proceed. I headed home, but halfway home, she called to say "We're halfway up the mountain and the thing died again." So I turned around and headed back towards her. Thirty-five kilometers of bone-jarring, bolt-loosening, washboard, cobblestone road to hurry over and ponder...why.
We're currently in a 10 week study of Michael Card's A Sacred Sorrow, a book subtitled Reaching out to God in the Lost Language of Lament. His thesis: Lament (weeping, protesting, complaining) to God is the path to worship of God. Eugene Peterson in the Foreward says, "...learning the language of lament is not only necessary to restore Christian dignity to suffering and repentence and death, it is necessary to provide a Christian witness to a world that has no language for and is therefore oblivious to the glories of wilderness and cross."
After nearly 15 years in Bundibugyo, we continue to seek to understand the mystery of pain and suffering. Immersed in the ocean of it nearly from dawn to dusk. Yesterday alone:
I told the wife of our house-worker that their 15 week baby-in-utero was dead....
I found a three year old child who's shoulder (proximal humerus bone) was gone, eaten by infection...
I received three requests for financial assistance, for the mere basics of roofing sheets, chairs in the home, and secondary school fees....
We've studied and prayed, trying to comprehend the purpose of pain, to see it through the lens of the Scriptures, to develop a "theology of suffering". The general response here is to explain through blame. Usually a curse, a relationship out of kilter, ancestral spirits creating havoc.
A Sacred Sorrow is not an apologetic for the existence of evil in the world, but rather a biblical examination of the real world response of several of the giants of the historical Judeo-Christian faith (Job David, Jeremiah,Jesus). It seeks not to answer or justify, but merely to lend a hand to those who grieve.
David's struggles in the wilderness led to a whole host of Psalms of Lament (Psalms 5, 13, 22, 28, 31, 38, 51, 55, 59, 69,109). They all begin with his complaints, his struggles, his desperation. But there is in each one a sudden transition, a switch in focus from Self to Elsewhere. The sixth letter of the Hebrew alphabet, the vav (also spelled waw) marks the "crossing of the line" from whining to worship. It always seems sudden and to me inexplicable. This is what I want to understand....how does that happen?
Yesterday while I jostled and bumped towards a dead car, I wondered... "What is the point of this? This is a colossal waste of my time." My head and throat ached from an annoying viral URI which had developed in the morning. I was diverted from my work and kids to hours of struggle and frustration. Compared to Job, of course, I could not complain, nevertheless I did.
I did finally reach Jennifer in the mid-afternoon on the mountainside, gave her our reliable LandRover so she could proceed to Kampala. I creeped back toward the mission in the crippled Nissan. I broke down another half dozen times and arrived home at dusk, dirty, thirsty, yet thankful. Thankful because it could have been worse? I suppose partly. Somewhere along the road, though, in the midst of my grumblings, I realized that I did have a need, a hunger. I remembered David's imprecations which melted with "disturbing clarity" into worship. My annoyance also morphed somewhere into something else. In some way, I realized that I had no where else to go. The path of pain seems to lead either to despair or worship. I choose worship.
(N.B. "A Sacred Sorrow" has an accompanying "Experience Guide", a booklet which leads through 10 weeks of readings in Job, the Psalms, Jeremiah, and the gospels. Both get five star ratings from Bundibugyo).
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Pots, deep and numerous
Like faith, risking the need for grace is a concept that sounds noble but feels a bit like death. And as so often happens, when the Spirit supplies such a direct message, the need to grasp onto that truth follows close behind.
So though it is only Tuesday, the depth and volume of my week’s empty clay pots feels cavernous.
It could have something to do with the fact that our 23 bed ward is crammed with 37 patients, a half-dozen of whom should be in an ICU with their sky-high malaria parasite counts or purulent brain fluids. It could also be related to the fact that yesterday we confirmed that over 30 kilos of sugar and a similar amount of beans have slowly leaked out of our nutrition store in the last two months, a cup here and a bag there spilling into a life-threatening hemorrhage of dishonesty. Or the fact that a few hours after the painful meeting in which we asked for the staff to return their store key . . . We got a disturbing email from UNICEF that not only canceled their visit which we had prepared for that day, but also implied that the one disbursement of amazing therapeutic milk powder they had bestowed in April would not be repeated because we were not following their rules closely enough. Since the stock had dwindled and we had been led to believe for the last six weeks that the next shipment was imminent, this was quite a blow. In between these two gaping potholes, the entire S2 class from our school (actually the ONLY class in which I have no biologic or sponsored children, so it could have been a worse shock) was dismissed temporarily after another meal disaster was met by student wildness and rock-throwing. In the process of processing that yet more issues surfaced of envy, abusive behaviour, layers of disrespect and misunderstanding. Sigh. The empty jars lined up rather quickly.
And underlying all these dry vessels, the reality that some major family changes are imminent. Last week Luke was offered a spot at Rift Valley Academy, a missionary boarding school in Kenya, for 11th grade beginning in August. Though I’ve had our kids on waiting lists for years for vague future spots . . . The chances of one opening in high school are usually slim. So not until now have I had to face the risk and loss of that separation.
As these pots collected, though, the oil began to flow. First and foremost, we stand in awe of Luke’s readiness to give RVA a try. He’s made the decision to go, with our blessing, in a mature and sensible manner, one that shows he is more ready than we are for this milestone. Then the dismissal of the unruly students proceeded smoothly and has already made a difference in the school’s atmosphere. We continue to pray for real conflict and reconciliation skills to grow out of a grasp of the Gospel at CSB. Then the nursing staff worked incredibly hard to shoulder the burden of overwhelming disease, and two of our best nurses showed up (surprise!) on break from their further schooling to pitch in and help. And lastly, after a day of emails and phone calls and indecision, UNICEF agreed to meet with Heidi and me on Thursday morning to work out an agreement that will allow continued cooperation.
So that flowing oil actually opens another gaping pot, I have only driven to Kampala without Scott a couple of times, and do not feel confident about the challenges of the next few days, or about leaving my kids or the hospital ward. The collaboration which brings resources to desperate kids means I need to risk needing that grace, but I’d appreciate prayers for the trip and for immersion in oily grace.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
A tribute to his dad on Father's Day... from Luke

The doctor and his wife in Bundi live
With their four sweet little kids
Feeding and healing the hungry and poor
Ultrasounds, accounting, surgery and more
He's a mobile banker
Free money for those who have a hanker
A pizza chef of great acclaim
Never are two ever the same
Grilling tender quality steaks
Then delicious tacos he makes
On safari (a different mode)
"A willager on this road?"
He protects his family at Campsite 2
With a slingshot and a cooking pan too
He even has a small farm
One goat, two cows, he shows his charm
But they stamp and butt
They chase to cut
But he milks them still
So that we drink our fill
Sewing and super-gluing our lacerations
Trying to prevent macerations
And when the dangerous Ebola he did see
He stayed and and helped and did not flee
On muddy roads treacherous
In Clifford he comes to fetch us
Global digerati a techno master
He has a Mac that's always faster
An avid photographer Nikon d200
Some people ask, "how is he funded?"
He has a strange need for fire
Burning and exploding till the situation's dire
First his face, the kitchen burnt
The trash pit; you'd think he learnt?
My dad is the very best
Trial by fire
He has passed the test.