Luke called to say that he met with the orthopedic surgeon today, and
was at least cleared to begin practicing again. He's supposed to pace
himself back to full activity over a period of a few weeks. So he re-
entered the JV team today, not doing everything, but finally off the
bench. Hooooray! Interestingly, the surgeon showed him his MRI and
explained how deep and large the bone "bruise" was, and showed him
where there was a slight ligamentous tear (sprain). Both of those
findings help him understand the ongoing intermittent pain he has
experienced. But there are now no findings on his exam that would
indicate a meniscal tear or need for surgery (parenthetically, the
official radiology report DID mention the meniscal tear, so we are
doubly and triply and umpteenly glad that God put an experienced
orthopedic surgeon in Kijabe this year who made his own interpretation
of the films). This has not been an easy time for Luke, but we see
God's mercy in the reprieve, and a toughening and growing maturity
through the disappointment and pain. A few weeks of actual exercise
and fun would be nice now. We all sense a lifting of the burden, and
a hope. Many thanks for the many prayers on his behalf.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
From a walk to a run
Luke called to say that he met with the orthopedic surgeon today, and
was at least cleared to begin practicing again. He's supposed to pace
himself back to full activity over a period of a few weeks. So he re-
entered the JV team today, not doing everything, but finally off the
bench. Hooooray! Interestingly, the surgeon showed him his MRI and
explained how deep and large the bone "bruise" was, and showed him
where there was a slight ligamentous tear (sprain). Both of those
findings help him understand the ongoing intermittent pain he has
experienced. But there are now no findings on his exam that would
indicate a meniscal tear or need for surgery (parenthetically, the
official radiology report DID mention the meniscal tear, so we are
doubly and triply and umpteenly glad that God put an experienced
orthopedic surgeon in Kijabe this year who made his own interpretation
of the films). This has not been an easy time for Luke, but we see
God's mercy in the reprieve, and a toughening and growing maturity
through the disappointment and pain. A few weeks of actual exercise
and fun would be nice now. We all sense a lifting of the burden, and
a hope. Many thanks for the many prayers on his behalf.
Monday, October 20, 2008
With what shall I come?
With what shall I come before the LORD,Sunday, October 19, 2008
East African Highway (Thursday)
The return journey begins: Moonset over the Rift, we pile into our loaded truck at 5:55 a.m.. The road climbs to the ridge then dips to the valley, skirting Lakes Naivasha, Elementitia, and Nakuru. Frigid air, long-haul lorries barreling downhill then straining upwards belching black smoke, donkeys (we count 111 by the roadside over the course of the morning, something to keep the kids interested) slung with bags of cabbages or coal shuffle towards market.

Donkeys aren't the only roadside animals: we also pass zebra, impala, antelope, warthogs, and baboons.

The corridor of violence: our route takes us through the heart of the troubles which shook Kenya earlier this year. We stop and buy a newspaper from enterprising hawkers who position themselves at the ubiquitous speed humps. Today the Waki Comission has released their report on the post-election violence, in which 1,133 people died, 405 of those at the hands of the police, a fairly equal mixture of Luos, Kikuyus, Luhyas and Kalenjins, though each of those tribes carries a sense of being victimized disproportionately. The report concludes first that almost two decades of failure to prosecute perpetrators of violence in Kenya led to a "culture of impunity" in which politicians and thugs alike were emboldened to use force for personal gain. Secondly, that the "personalization of power" around the Presidency led to undue pressure from certain ethnic groups to ensure success for their candidate (necessary to the survival of their tribe), and also compromised oversight from other branches of government. The commission has made recommendations to improve the conduct of the police force, and turned over names of 10 key politicians for international prosecution. Both Kibaki and Odinga have endorsed this step, Odinga using a Biblical reference to "let the truth set us free". Meanwhile we still drive past a handful of IDP camps, the tell-tale UN tarps like clusters of alien igloos around the false security of various police posts.



The landscape in western Kenya: weathered board shacks and fences, with a pioneer feel, small herds of cows and sheep, paddocks of corn and grass, open endless sky, muted grassy yellows and browns. Then a splash of garish pink and kelly green. The two main competing cell phone companies ply this trail with their stocks of paint, claiming shops for their advertising. Zain seems to be outstripping Safaricom if building color is any measure.

Milk transport: Roadside cans, picked up by trucks or hauled on bikes, the pipeline of protein from pasture to plant.


Creative advertising: All the pictures here were snapped out my window in transit, so quality and selection suffer a bit at 60 km/hr. I missed "Cockroach Promoters". But how would you like to put your money in the inspiring "Skam Investments"? Or survive the police while getting your clothes spiffed at the "Roadblock Cleaners"? Or learn to drive into objects from the "Ding Wall Driving School?"

Eldoret: The one sizable city on the trip, humming with traffic and people. A country town that received its own international airport and university during the decades of Moi rule, the fruits of point 2 above, personalization of power around the presidency.

The road: Whole stretches are fantastic new asphalt. But plenty of worn patches slow down the pace, lumpy filled and not-so-filled potholed spans where traffic weaves from side to side searching for a level spot. The entire 13 hour trip is on a two-lane road, meaning that Scott has to pass poky tractor-trailer trucks about a hundred times. And that more than once we are run off the road by careless drivers overtaking in the opposite direction. And that we share the tarmac with pedestrians and bicycles. Road trauma remains the leading cause of death for expatriates in Africa. We are sober about the task of arriving alive.

A result of the aforesaid bad road: we stop to change a puncture. Scott, with help from Caleb, can do this in minutes. We always carry two spares.


Contrast: These mud-walled thatch-roofed huts abut this 21st-century cell tower. Africa quantum-leaps forward, investing in communication rather than suburbia.

The trucks: The East African Community has noticed that the over-filled lorries are ruining their precious-few tarmac road surfaces. So they made an agreement to ban the largest trailers, those with four axels in the rear. The enterprising truck drivers have merely removed one of the four rear sets of wheels, probably without a decrement on load, meaning the same weight is now distributed on less surface area, which from S1 physics we know equals higher pressure and more road damage.

The border: Approaching the border we crept around trucks lined up for about two kilometers. Jack counted 221. I can only imagine they must wait for days to pass. We, on the other hand, have found a very speedy "clearing agent". The system of changing countries is an obscure series of steps and paperwork and kick-back designed to ensure that illegal cargo is not smuggled under the tax radar, or that stolen cars do not jump from one country to the next. But in effect the bureaucracy provides income for the young men who scramble to help the unwary traveler, and the hawkers who capitalize on the hours of delay by selling drinks and samosas. We call our agent an hour ahead of time as we drive, and he meets us at the gates to the border zone. He takes our car registration and log book, our passports and departure declarations, and he and Scott divide and conquer the many offices to be visited. I write ten times on ten different colored cards our names, passport numbers, birthdays, reasons for travel. The actual border is a river, and there is a stretch of narrow fenced road over a bridge between the two guarded posts. Since we are officially Uganda residents, departing can take up to two hours, but our return was accomplished in 23 minutes.

Back in Uganda: The day is slipping away. The landscape greens, lush, colorful, vibrant, the harsh dusty highlands of Kenya giving way to the jungle of Uganda. School children cluster home over the Nile River Dam, which provides electricity for the country.

The End of the Journey: The sun blazes directly into our eyes as we head west into the city of Kampala, reaching our destination just as darkness overtakes us.
Friday, October 17, 2008
Family Time
break, to give the staff a breathing space away from 24/7
responsibility for the boarding students, and to allow the students to
reconnect with their families or guardians. New students are advised
not to plan to leave Kenya since their passports are usually still in
process in some labyrinthine government agency in Nairobi for
acquiring student visas. Since this was our first six-week stretch of
family dispersal, we decided that this time we'd trek all the way back
with all five of us to see Luke. Hence the over 1000 km of driving
each way, about 23 hours in the truck spread over 2 1/2 days, the lost
school days for the younger three, the jumble of making plans for
being gone, the necessity of abandoning many tasks to our capable but
overworked team. A steep investment, but well worth it. We had
initially planned a grand climb-Mt.-Kenya adventure, but after Luke's
injury we switched to a more sedentary plan. God knew we all needed
the rest.
We rented a cabin at Sunrise Acres, where a steadfast missionary
couple in their 60's runs a dairy farm on the side of their church and
orphanage work. They have constructed four simple houses, the kind
you might rent at a state park in West Virginia, with clapboard siding
and patchwork quilts and wood-burning stoves and shelves of dog-eared
paperbacks, forming a semi-circle around a shady yard with flower beds
and playground equipment, and bordered by pine forest and cow
pasture. My sense is that the decades of faithfulness the Stovers
have put in have somehow cleared this spiritual oasis, so that an
American family can pull into the yard and enter into peace. The
elevation on that side of the Great Rift is about 8 to 9 thousand
feet. It is cold, breezy, quiet, and probably one of the best bargains
in the world (the six of us got our own house, three bedrooms, milk
and strawberries galore, for less than fifty dollars/night).
Mostly we just WERE. I cooked a lot, trying to fill up the weeks of
cafeteria-food cavities with grilled meat and fresh vegetables and
home made bread and pie and cookies. We played ping-pong and shot
baskets, kicked around a soccer ball, put together a puzzle, played a
few games, watched our kids' two favorite movies: A Princess Bride,
and The Emperor's New Groove. We all eagerly listened to RVA
stories. There was a spike of Rubik's Cube mania as Luke and Jack
competed to solve them in close to two minutes, Caleb figured it out,
and Julia decided to give it a go too. We slept, long and hard,
under wool blankets with closed windows, no noises to wake us.
One day we drove down to Nakuru, and visited a national park we had
not previously seen. Lake Nakuru is home to thousands of pink
flamingos. Again, this day was a gift, because riding on the roof of
the truck through forest and savannah scanning for animals is a key
part of our family experience. We spotted two leopards, distantly, in
a tree before they climbed down and disappeared. Dozens of rhino
amazed us with their mass and their prehistoric horns and knobby
skin. We watched V's of pelicans take flight, clumps of flamingos
running like showgirls on their delicate legs and high-heeled
impractical feet, springy gazelle and even a few huge eland resting in
the grass by the water's edge. Warthogs, ostriches, baboons, buffalo,
zebra . . . and a picnic lunch on the escarpment, far above the pink-
fringes of the lake.
Then we headed back to Kijabe and said goodbye. Still hard, but not
as heart-breaking as the first time. Perhaps the key difference is
that we have now seen first-hand that this is a good place for Luke.
He has some great teachers, challenging classes, interesting
activities, a library. He has learned to follow the schedule and pace
himself on work. He's been empowered by independence, and we know
deep down this was the right plan for him. The culture is nearly
American . . . a good laboratory for learning to survive amongst a
crowd of giggling teenage girls and video-gaming boys. Luke's knee
still hurts at times, and he completes his enforced inactivity period
on Tuesday when he will see the orthopedic surgeon again. The
inability to play on the team is still the hardest aspect of his life
there and we are praying he can return next week.
In all a hidden blessing of sending our son away has been the right to
snatch five days of family time from the middle of intense months of
ministry. We're thankful.
Tuesday, October 07, 2008
To Kenya
Tomorrow we begin the 2 1/2 day trek to Kijabe to pick Luke up Friday for his midterm break. It is never easy to leave here, we are just too connected in a complex web of relationship, of obligations and needs that teeters on the brink of imbalance in a good week and feels pretty tenuous after a week like our last one. There are umpteen people to be paid and cared for, keys to be left, medicines to be supplied, letters provided, plans for patients, not to mention our little farm of two cows, a goat, and a dog. We have to shut down power and clear out all the food so that rats and roaches don't completely take over. The kids have been working to get assignments for missed classes in a place where family trips are pretty much unheard of. We have to pack in such a way that everything can go in an open truck bed covered with a tarp, and survive being shaken for about 23 hours of rough driving. We'll be staying for the long weekend in a restful, simple missionary retreat cottage in the highlands north of the Great Rift . . .but in a town with no grocery or restaurants, so I've been baking and freezing and making a list of what to buy along the way. We won't have much internet access, so we're trying tonight to tie up any loose communication ends. It is a great treat to get our family back together, to get away from the front lines of Bundibugyo for a few days, to reconnect. But the truth is that the effort involved to get there and back is, well, if not prohibitive, at least considerable. Monday, October 06, 2008
more pruning...
Speaking of pruning.....Heidi mentioned at dinner tonight that our newest team member (Nathan Elwood - who we hope will be with us by the end of the month) wrote to ask for information about what type of computer would be best for Bundibugyo. Heidi realized that with the departure of the Massos, the last vestige of the PC users have gone. We are a 100% Apple-Mac team now (at last count there are 13 Apple laptops on the Bundibugyo team).
What does that say about our team....well, we're not quite sure actually...
One thing for sure...Apple's market share in Bundibugyo is well above 8%.
Pruning
Just before my mom visited in August, we attempted some yard spiffing by asking our workers to prune the bushes. In spite of my best communication efforts, the idea of pruning here is pretty extreme. You start with a bush and end with a stick. I suppose people have learned to get away with that because we live in a tropical humidor and everything grows so quickly. God brought the pruning image to my mind yesterday. A year ago our team had 5 families. Today we have 2. We had 8 single people. Today we have 4. We were scrambling to accommodate the influx of new missionaries. Today we have four empty houses. The couple and the single man for whom we've waited are still finishing support raising, and we heard this weekend that we lost a new team member when the Clarks miscarried. We are feeling pruned.
The bushes by the door that were devastated a month ago are already covered in leaves, and roses are budding out all over the pruned branches. I hope the same may be seen from our ministry by 2009.
Sunday, October 05, 2008
Bringing in the Triple


Party number 3: a Romp. Julia and Acacia had planned a Narnia Birthday, and the Romp from Prince Caspian was a pretty good picture of how it turned out. We ended up with about 30 people, as team and friends filtered in. Games based on Narnia books, including a treasure hunt where the prize was blank books we had covered in beautiful kitenge cloth so that kids could begin to write their own stories, and a relay involving yellow and green rings and various worlds as in The Magician's Nephew. Pizza, and at the end an Aslan-cake (thanks to Pat's decorating help!). The highlights: first, that the entire team poured creative effort into costuming themselves. Most creative mention goes to Heidi for coming as the Lampost, complete with missing arm. Best use of artificial hair was a Masso family tie between Michael as Tumnus and Liana as Trumpkin. Julia herself chose to be Fledge, the winged horse. Second highlight, Julia's true joy in the event. She was lit up all evening. Her girlfriends who have celebrated almost every birthday with here were there along with team and a few other friends. She beamed and hugged and generally delighted in the spotlight, particularly since she could share it with Acacia. And last, the final half hour of dancing, outside in the grass, in a circle of candles, the freedom of laughter as the kids jumped and swayed under a crescent moon. Though thunder had rumbled threateningly, and though we are in the midst of our most intense rainy season, the gathering clouds moved down the mountainside and left our plot of ground amazingly untouched. I am very, very thankful.Friday, October 03, 2008
Party, verse 2
This evening was wonderful. 21 teenage girls got to eat their
favorite foods, with seconds and sodas and prayer and games (after a
short lecture on being humble as they went back so we would all avoid
arousing jealousy). Julia got to giggle with friends and welcome them to her home. Acacia got the special attention of authentic goodbyes. I got to sit in a circle of girls who were just being girls, watch them drop their guards as they participated in a charades-like game,
and watch Julia and Acacia cross cultures in a free way that is more
difficult for us adults. And give back a little of the grace that others are extending to Luke as he boards . . . through his eyes I can now appreciate the tremendously valuable life boost an evening like this can provide. Ashley got the satisfaction of giving her team a
treat after their months of practice.
A very different party from last night, but fun all the same. I am
grateful, knowing we do not deserve the miracle of two authentic
Isaiah 25 celebrations in a row, but still hoping for the triple hit
tomorrow.
A taste of true home
Yesterday I felt that the week was going to prove to be just too much, that saying goodbye to the Massos and all the emotional intensity of our family-coping would be insurmountable. I sent a quick email for prayer, an acknowledgment that we were at the end of our abilities and we needed a Divine intervention. It seemed a bit odd as a missionary to ask for prayer for a party. But then people thought Jesus was not serious enough either. So we asked for prayer that the farewell dinner we gave last night would be an Isaiah 25 type feast of fine food and beverage, or as Capon puts it "May we all sit long enough for reserve to give way to ribaldry and for gallantry to grow upon us. May there be singing at our table before the night is done, and old, broad jokes to fling at the stars and tell them we are men. . . The road to Heaven does not run from the world but through it . . Eat well then. Between our lov
e and His Priesthood, He makes all things new. Our Last Home will be home indeed."